Falling in Love with Ruaha

July 28, 2010


I am writing from my banda within Ruaha National Park. We arrived this morning, shortly before lunch. Just from our short drive to our housing we already saw giraffes, elephants, hippos, crocodiles, waterbuck, warthog, and impala. After lunch we had an introductory discussion with the Chief Park Warden, the head veterinarian, and a park ecologist regarding the current issues and challenges within the park, namely human-wildlife-livestock conflict, drought, fire, poaching, and infectious disease. After our discussion we loaded our Land Rovers for a game drive.

Beware of crocs in Ruaha!

The vehicles headed out into different directions so as to not disturb the wildlife for the others. My vehicle had the fortune to see many elephants up close, zebras, giraffes, kudu, and even lions! The elephants were probably the most “exciting” because we found ourselves a bit too close to a few elephants that were especially aggressive due to the presence of young in the herd. Elephants can be quite territorial and will charge intruders with intimidating speed and force. The elephants that we crossed paths with were definitely intimidating. In captive situations, elephants appear docile and friendly towards humans; however, this behavior is highly unnatural. In the wild, elephants pose a definite risk to humans even within the security of a SUV.

After our game drive we came back to our “home base” for dinner and another discussion. This time, our discussion was more specifically about the veterinary interventions within the park. There is relatively little human intervention in Ruaha National Park which is becoming increasingly rare in so-called “wild areas.” The veterinarians mainly assess herd health by performing necropsies and monitoring population numbers. They also prevent disease by vaccinating against common infectious diseases (i.e. rabies). The lead vet also shared with us his research on the emerging disease issue of giraffes known as “giraffe skin disease.” This condition leads to eroded and ulcerated skin near the carpus and genital region of adult animals. Little is known about its etiology, transmission, and prevalence, but early estimates indicate a prevalence of over 80% of giraffes within Ruaha National Park.

I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s adventure. Again we are loading the Land Rovers, but this time to assess giraffe health from a distance. We will be surveying groups of giraffes with our binoculars and then recording the presence or absence of skin disease, the severity of such disease, and body condition. We will be recording our findings and then pooling our data with that from the other groups to establish surveillance data for 2010.

I’m still very much enjoying my time in Tanzania. I am meeting very interesting people and making valuable contacts. I am also having the time of my life! Last night to say goodbye to Chogela Camp we had a BBQ with some folks from Wildlife Conservation Society, the Ruaha Carnivore Project, and the U.S. Department of Interior and Fish and Wildlife Service. After we ate dinner we were treated to a song and dance around the campfire by a village singing troupe. It was awesome…drums beating, people dancing, music playing! Afterwards we took our party to the dining banda for a Tanzanian dance party “club style.” I have made such great friends here – they truly are an extended family. We joke, laugh, sing, dance, learn, and live together. It will be hard to say goodbye in only 2 short weeks.

Feeling the music at the Chogela Camp BBQ

Life in the African Bush

July 26, 2010


Blogging is definitely more difficult in the African bush – limited electricity and busy schedules! We left our beautiful bandas at Riverside Campground for Chogela Camps (our most “rugged” accommodations thus far) in Tungamalenga. I am sharing a tent with Jocelyn and Sukuman and two toilets and one warm shower with over 20 women. Despite this, I am having the time of my life! I love life in the bush! Our first full day at the campsite we had a discussion around the smoking campfire about our previous day visiting the Maasai village. In the village we were treated to chai and flatbread, a song and dance with the women, and beautiful jewelry available to purchase. We were invited to come into their homes and visit with their women and children. We asked questions about their animals, their lifestyles, and their challenges. They were very willing to share with us and open their doors to all of us “mzungu.” I felt very humbled to be able to see life through their eyes for a day. I asked Mzee about his attitude towards the nearby Ruaha National Park, to which responded “It is my property.” The Maasai are pastoralists who migrate with their animals to wherever they can find food and water. Sometimes this means into buffer zones called “Wildlife Management Areas” intended to reduce human-animal-wildlife conflict and disease transmission. With the increasing human populations, the protected wildlife areas are feeling intense pressure from the local people. The animals can easily become nuisances and are then subject to poaching. These challenges will become increasingly common and more difficult to manage in the future. This is one of the primary reasons we are here in Tanzania.

Getting to know the Maasai children

During our morning discussion with Dr. David Mutekanga, Assistant Director of the Wildlife Conservation Society Ruaha Landscape, we summarized the challenges and brainstormed potential solutions for the Maasai people. My contribution to the group was a final thought: I kept hearing from my colleagues from developing countries about the local tribes in their countries and I realized that the U.S. has a history of extirpating those of a different culture (i.e. Native Americans). Development should not equal loss of biological and cultural diversity. The Maasai should be able to maintain their culture, but compromise will be required if there is to be peaceful relationships with minimal disease.

After our morning of discussion we divided into groups and mine was off to test Maasai cattle for bovine tuberculosis. It was so great! I got to draw blood from the jugular vein, shave spots for the PPD injection along the neck, and measure the initial skin thickness with calipers. We knocked down 4 animals and tested to get an idea of the health of the herd. After the testing we headed to the Maasai household to have a more intimate discussion with the family. They were so candid with us and even asked us a few questions of their own. The women, for example, wanted to know how old women are when they get married in developed countries. They also wanted to know how we all came together from different countries. It was great hearing what questions they had, and it started feeling like a real “Oprah moment.”

Tb Testing of Maasai Cattle with Chuma and Annette

The Maasai are very generous by letting a group of students use their animals for learning. It is very important that we honor their generosity by giving back to them in a measurable way. The Mzee requested things like dip tanks for their cattle, a veterinary pharmacy to get drugs for their animals, and money for their children to go to school. They want us to help them solve their problems and not just come and tell them what problems they have. Lesson learned: in research it is so important to maintain relationships with those who help you do your work. Don’t just arrive and collect samples and leave. This has been done in the past and it leaves bitterness and reduces the likeliness that these people will allow for additional research in the future. Give back in a way that is meaningful to the people you are working with and who your research affects. Take the time to learn what they need and how they are gaining from your presence.

Iringa: Poultry, Crafts, and Shopping!

July 23, 2010


Day 4 in Tanzania started with a breakfast of French toast, a fried egg, hot tea, and papaya. We then boarded the coaster and headed towards a poultry farm about 30 minutes away. When we got to the farm we were greeted by a group of young kids who were so cute and friendly. They are still a bit scared of “mzungu” and are hesitant to talk even when you speak Swahili. I asked Wilson, one of our locals, what he said to the kids because when he approached them they acted like old friends. Wilson said he only asked their names, whether they went to school, and how old they were. I tried the same strategy and got a little better success.

The poultry farm was interesting. It actually reminded me a little of Grant Family Farms – free range chickens feeding on fresh cabbage and maize, rolling in the dust and just being a chicken. The owner of the farm was so proud of his accomplishments – he started with 10 hens and one cock and now they have over 200 hens. He sells the eggs and meat to the locals and has been able to make a decent living for himself and his family. He has plans to grow the farm to over 3,000 chickens and serve even more Tanzanians. I asked him what his biggest disease concern was, to which he replied infectious coryza. I was surprised to hear that avian influenza, salmonellosis, and Mareks disease isn’t more of a concern in Tanzania. Currently there have been no documented cases of AI in Tanzania, but there are surveillance strategies and prevention efforts taking place. It was really interesting having the many animal health professionals weighing in on the farm owner’s operations and how he can improve his disease prevention and disease surveillance. Simple techniques such as separating animals by age and isolating diseased animals could really make a difference for this farm’s production.

Sukuman and me touring the poultry farm

After the poultry farm we headed towards the Veterinary Investigation Center of Tanzania. The VIC essentially plays the role of the USDA within Tanzania. They perform post-mortem exams and respond to disease outbreaks for the region surrounding Iringa. They try to educate local livestock owners about disease risks including zoonotic diseases such as Anthrax. It was amazing for me to see how much work they do and the challenges they face. For example, their facility was a simple building with a serology laboratory with one ELISA analyzer. They do necropsies “in house” only on small animals (piglets, cats, and chickens) and have to do larger animals in the field. Many times the facility loses electricity and has to postpone important surveillance work. Still, the VIC aims to report animal diseases within Tanzania based on the OIE classification.

From the VIC we headed towards Neema Café where we had lunch and got the story and a tour of this amazing place. Neema Café was started by a person from the U.K., and it provides disabled Tanzanians with a decent living by making crafts such as beads, elephant dung paper, and fabrics. The employees were so happy and, again, welcoming to our group of visitors. Many of the employees were deaf, so we learned a few expressions in sign language to communicate our appreciation and admiration for their work. Some of the other employees were victims of polio and were trained to use a hand looms because of their leg disfigurement. Neema Café was such a special place. It was heartwarming to see the positivity that radiated from this place. The workers were happy to be earning a wage, the guests loved the handicrafts and ambience, and the city has benefited from the tourism.

Mother and child busy at work at Neema Crafts, Iringa

After our lunch and tour of Neema, we had an opportunity to explore the markets of Iringa on our own. I was a little nervous at first to be set free in a town so foreign, but I quickly found my way and soon couldn’t get enough! I went into the food market where there was an abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables, beans, rice, and dagaa (sardines). I met a nice young man named Alex who allowed me to practice my Swahili. He was 20 years old and had learned English in secondary school, and he was very wiling to let me say my new phrases. I explained that I was there with a group of veterinarians to learn about the animals and ecosystem of his country. I introduced my friends Amelie and Sukuman to him as well. I purchased two tomatoes from him and even practiced my bargaining Swahili (Punguza bei?) to get him down to 150 Tsh. I ended up giving him 200 and leaving with a smile. Apparently Iringa is known for their fantastic tomatoes and onions – we’ll see if they live up to their reputation!

Tomorrow we leave the Riverside Campsite, and I am excited to enter the bush and be off the grid (no electricity, no wireless, limited access to a warm shower). I will continue to write even though my updates are less frequent. Goodnight!

Water for Life

July 22, 2010


I had a perfect day in Tanzania. It started with a hot shower in our beautiful 2 bedroom banda at the Riverside Campground. We then had breakfast of crepes, hardboiled eggs, hot tea, and fresh fruit (mango and papaya). From there we loaded the coaster and headed for the Uhambingeto village, home to 5,600 residents and 700 students in the primary school newly equipped with a rainwater harvesting system built by Emmanuel International (EI). The system was a simple construction of corrugated zinc roofs, gutters, and pipes leading to a holding tank. The rainy season creates enough water to last through the year for all water needs of the school (drinking, sanitation) – assuming they stick to a strict budget. We then had chai and donuts at the church and were entertained by a few members of the choir – what a treat! Andrew (electrical engineer) and Andy (water engineer) from EI gave us a great look into village life and introduced us to many of the locals. They were so appreciative of our visit and so kind to us. I have never experienced hospitality like this before. After our visit we loaded our vehicles and headed for the Kibebe Farm, a dairy in Iringa. They are currently trying to become organic and have many challenges with trying to be a sustainable operation within a developing country. For example, the technology does not exist to do nutrient analysis on the feed. The livestock managers do not have a good idea what trace minerals the animals are receiving, and it is possible that the animals are deficient in nutrients that could be valuable to their production. Simple things like known feed rations and parasite burdens are a difficult science with no laboratory or trained technicians. Despite their challenges, the Kibebe Farm produces high quality dairy products that are in demand throughout the region. Though their animals may have reduced fertility and their milk production may taper as their cows reach 16 years of age, the family farm is making it and they are growing as their demands change.

All in all, this day was heartwarming, educational, and a bit unexpected. I got my picture with Tanzanian children and my song and dance from the African chorus. But I also got a sense of responsibility to the communities that share these delicate ecosystems that just want clean water and a safe place for their children to go to school. It is so imperative that if we are to protect wildlife and precious landscapes, we must start with the people. A better life, a better world must start with us. Lala salama.

 Signing the guest book of the village school on behalf of the Envirovet students 2010

Swahili lesson for today:

Punguza bei – Please lower the price

Naangalia tu – I am just looking

Una watoka wangapi? – How many children do you have?

Daktali ya wayama – veterinarian (doctor of animals)

Lala salama – sleep well

Tafadhali – please

Bei gani – how much?

Napapenda hapa – I love it here

Nakunpenda – I love you

Kuku – chicken

Tembo – elephant

Jina langu ni Amanda – My name is Amanda

Jina lako nani – What is your name?

Samahani – Excuse me

Maji ya chupa – bottled water

Ninasema kiswhaili kidogo sana – I speak very little Swahili

Habari za asubuhi – How is your morning?

Pole – Sorry

Wapi choo? – Where are the toilets?

Wanawake/wanaume – women /men

Karibu Tanzania!

July 21, 2010


Oh my gosh, I can’t believe it! I am in Tanzania! What a beautiful place I am in right now…mountains, trees, goats, and friendly faces. The air is cool and dry – what a welcome change from Florida. We had a crazy few days of travel, leaving Ft. Pierce at 3 a.m. Monday morning and arriving in Dar Es Salaam Tuesday at 5:00 p.m. Our travels were relatively easy. We had a smooth flight from West Palm Beach to JFK and all but one of us got our bags on the Emirates flight to Dubai. It was raining “cats and dogs” in New York and we had to walk outside with all of our luggage from the baggage claim to our terminal. By the time we got to the check-in we were mostly drenched and some of us had the time to change our clothes to dry ones. The flight to Dubai was nearly 13 hours, but somehow it went pretty quickly. There were so many movies and games to choose from I almost wished I had more time! We had a quick layover in Dubai which was an interesting experience – women dressed in black from head to toe, bathrooms with just a hole in the ground, and shopping! The airport was quite elaborate, but I didn’t get to see much of the city. We soon boarded a plane to Dar and 5 hours later I was stepping on African soil.

Dar Es Salaam was basically a big city in a developing country. Lots of cars, vendors on the street, and markets for fruit, calling cards, and tools. Our hotel was a pleasant surprise and the bed was a beautiful sight. After 18 hours in a sitting position it was really nice to be horizontal. We checked into the hotel and chose our roomies for the night. Sukuman and I dropped off our luggage and went downstairs for a dinner of rice, chicken, fish, and beans. The food was good – I think I am African! I took a shower and was asleep before Sukuman was out of hers. The room was nice – and fewer bugs than Florida! We woke up at 6:30 and cleaned up before breakfast and departing to begin our journey across Tanzania. We are headed west towards Iringa. Right now we are stopped in Morogoro at Sokoine University. We have met Harrison and Professor Rudovick Kazwala who will accompany us for the remainder of the trip. They are both Envirovet alumni and are so welcoming and friendly. Africa is about what I expected – maybe even a little better. I love being here and I am looking forward to meeting more people, taking more pictures, and learning more Swahili!

Karibu Tanzania!

A Journey of a Lifetime

July 18, 2010

  Today is our last at Harbor Branch.  On the schedule we have "Global Research and Conservation Programs at the Georgia Aquarium" with Dr. Greg Bossart and "Threats and Management of Manatees" from Dr. Martine de Wit from Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission.  After the morning of lectures we will perform a marine mammal necropsy.  We will get into groups and either necropsy a manatee, a dolphin, a sperm whale, or a sea lion.  Pictures to come!
  Once the final classes are taught, we will head back to the hotel and begin the packing process for a journey of a lifetime.  We will leave for the West Palm Beach airport at 3 a.m., arriving at JFK after 9 a.m.  From there we will board a plane for Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, with a quick layover in Dubai, UAE.
  I can't believe within a few days I will be stepping foot on African soil.  I have wanted to go to Africa for as long as I can remember - it has always been top on my "travel priority list."  It is definitely surreal.  I feel like since I've started Envirovet I have been neither here nor there.  We travel everywhere together and are rarely iinteractive with the "outside world."  With the exception of the bugs and the humidity, I could barely tell I was even in Florida!  In Tanzania the structure of our learning will be much different.  We will be visiting national parks and interacting with locals.  We will be hands-on with African wildlife and livestock.  We will have chai in the villages and shop at the markets.  This part will definitely be the highlight of Envirovet for me.
  Hopefully I will have access to internet at least sporadically while I am in Tanzania. If so, expect a flood of blog entries all at once.  Regardless, I will be documenting every moment of this journey.  It will be one that I will treasure.  Thanks for following Envirovet Part 1!

3D Chad Comes to Envirovet!

I was fortunate to have a visit by Chad on Sunday, and he accompanied the group on the tour of the Billie Swamp Safari in the Florida Everglades.  My friends at E-vet have gotten to know Flat Chad, my laminated fiance who lives in my camera pouch.  At opportune times, Flat Chad makes an experience in my pictures.  When I told the gang that Chad was coming to Florida for a visit, they were beyond enthusiastic to meet "3D Chad." 

This picture makes me smile - notice the "3" in honor of Chad...